Legacy over lab: How natural diamond players are reclaiming the narrative

Forged over billions of years beneath the Earth’s surface, natural diamonds have long held a cherished place in the world of fine jewellery. Celebrated for their rarity and origin, they’ve symbolised not just luxury and legacy, but also love - often dubbed a girl’s best friend. However, as lab-grown diamonds enter the mainstream with compelling propositions, the natural diamond industry is sharpening its story - one that leans on legacy, emotion, and the enduring magic of something that truly cannot be replicated. 

According to a 2025 McKinsey & Co. report, diamond-studded jewellery is expected to be the key growth driver in India’s luxury market, with a projected increase of 21–23%.

Many brands have upped their marketing strategies to counter the ongoing chatter that is surrounding the industry with the emergence of lab-grown alternatives, with one clarity in mind - LGD’s are an entirely different segment which has nothing to do with this industry. 

Richa Singh, Managing Director, India and Middle East, Natural Diamond Council told e4m that consumers in India and Middle East especially have always viewed diamonds as timeless expressions of love, beauty, and investment. “So, unlike other markets that had to build affinity for diamonds, we’ve always had a strong base. To address this, the NDC refined its strategy. Our focus has intensified on education. Earlier, about 10–15% of our energy was spent on consumer education; now, it’s a much larger slice. We're addressing the myths and setting the record straight, particularly around sustainability and ethics.”

Brands too aligned on the same sentiment with many of them ramping efforts to re-establish the inherent value of natural diamonds through their marketing strategy. 

“We're really emphasizing the unique story and inherent value of natural diamonds through our marketing. We focus heavily on highlighting the origin, natural rarity, and emotional significance of natural diamonds - positioning them as lasting symbols of love and heirlooms to be passed down through generations,” said Trisha Datwani Anand, Creative Director at Anmol Jewellers. Anand further added that they have strategically increased their marketing investment over the past year to focus solely on natural diamonds. As part of their overall annual budget, the brand allocates around 3% to 4% specifically toward promoting natural diamonds.

Another key example is De Beers, which has declared 2025 as its highest natural diamond marketing spend year in a decade. De Beer’s Global CEO, Al Cook emphasized this investment, highlighting the Group’s long-term strategic partnership with Tanishq as a pivotal move to connect more Indian consumers with the rarity and value of natural diamonds and to capitalize on the growing opportunity in the Indian market. The group which had earlier launched its own lab grown division (now shut) has significantly ramped up marketing strategies in India including opening retail outlets and strategic partnerships.

ORRA fine jewellery focuses on reinforcing the emotional and geological authenticity of their range through storytelling and innovative activations. Dipu Mehta, Managing Director, ORRA Fine Jewellery Pvt. Ltd said, “Despite industry shifts, ORRA Fine Jewellery has increased its investment in natural diamonds over the past year and it is reflected in our marketing and communication spends. We believe that consumer education and brand storytelling are more critical now than ever.”

Meanwhile for Popley & Sons Jewellers, as said by Director, Rajiv Popley, consumer loyalty has always been the key to their marketing strategy. He added that around 65–70% of their spends are directed toward their loyalty programmes and associated outreach. 

Experts too seemed to be on board with natural diamonds as N. Chandramouli, CEO of TRA Research said that while lab-grown diamonds (LGDs) have gained ground due to cost-effectiveness and perceived environmental benefits, natural diamonds continue to resonate deeply due to their rarity, heritage, and emotional gravitas. It's important to recognize that the value of anything, particularly something symbolic, rests in its authenticity. Just as an exact replica of a Rembrandt cannot evoke the same reverence as the original, a natural diamond offers a legacy and narrative that replicas simply cannot match.

Media mix

In this changing landscape and increased marketing efforts, many brand's media mix is also evolving to reflect the same. 

While digital takes the largest pie of the total share, traditional media is also not far too left behind.

Shaifali Gautam, Chief Marketing Officer at CaratLane said that their media mix currently stands at a 50-50 divide between digital and traditional. “Earlier, nearly 90% of our marketing budget went into digital. But we’ve changed that mix significantly. With our expansion into tier 2 and tier 3 cities, we saw how effective traditional media still is - especially print, OOH, and regional vernacular newspapers so now, about 50% of our marketing spend is directed toward traditional media. This has helped us connect with audiences who aren’t necessarily active on platforms like Instagram or Facebook.” She added that while the divide can vary during tactical campaigns, especially key sale periods wherein print gets a larger portion of ads, the balance overall does come at about a 50-50. 

The brand has made a focused effort to boost awareness, launching a Valentine’s Day campaign across national Hindi GECs and regional channels. This year also marked its debut as an associate broadcast sponsor during the IPL, further amplifying its visibility.

Meanwhile, De Beers have taken a 360-degree approach towards their mix in India. Amit Pratihari, Managing Director at De Beers India, emphasized the importance of a regional, multi-lingual approach in both content and media strategy, given India’s vast diversity—where language, culture, and media habits shift every 500 kilometers. He noted that a one-size-fits-all model doesn’t work, and their 360-degree media mix reflects this. “While we’re digitally focused, we’re not ignoring traditional channels like print and outdoor. It’s all about how people consume content today - mostly through mobile devices, but often a combination of formats. Our media presence will reflect that diversity and reach,” Pratihari said. 

For Anmol Jewellers, the focus is on personalized, one-on-one experiences through exclusive events and private showcases in India - especially Mumbai - and abroad. Anand noted that their media mix is curated to reflect the brand’s prestige, using high-quality print and trusted digital platforms to reach discerning luxury buyers. While aggressive lab-grown marketing initially caused consumer confusion, she said, greater awareness over the past year has led many back to natural diamonds. Despite a brief dip in sales last year, the brand has seen steady growth since early this year.

Their strategy also involves a 50-50 mix between print and digital. “Our social media presence is very active. We use it to beautifully showcase the artistry of our natural diamonds and the meaningful stories behind them. Digital is, of course, significant, but we also invest in offline media. We advertise in magazines and rely heavily on personal, one-on-one conversations during our exhibitions and showcases.”

For ORRA, a retail-first brand, the media strategy centers on high-impact offline channels - print, outdoor, and on-ground activations, especially in key markets where physical presence drives footfall. Print remains strong in premium lifestyle, fashion, and bridal publications, while outdoor boosts recall around store clusters during festive and wedding seasons. Experiential activations in malls and stores create memorable brand touchpoints. Earned media through organic editorial coverage further builds credibility. At the same time, digital is a growing focus, with investments in social media, influencer partnerships, video storytelling, and performance marketing to connect with younger, online-first audiences. 

Chandramouli also explained the importance of each media in strengthening natural diamond’s legacy and presence. “A strategically calibrated media mix is essential for high-value categories such as natural diamonds. Trust is best established through respected legacy media, such as print and broadcast, while digital platforms offer a dynamic space for education and engagement,” he said. 

According to him, brands must integrate immersive storytelling, expert voices, and transparent sourcing narratives to articulate the full value proposition. Influencer-led content and experiential marketing, especially those that emphasize the authenticity and heritage of natural diamonds can also drive desirability. In essence, the media strategy must blend credibility with creativity, appealing to both the rational and emotional faculties of a discerning audience.

Busting the myth

The brands were absolutely clear in their approach of viewing LGDs as a completely separate category. 

Popley said, “LGDs are simply not part of our business category. They haven’t impacted our business model or consumer demand in any way. We’ve always been synonymous with natural and real diamonds across our product lines. So, there’s been no need to alter our offerings. For us, it’s not a competitive category.”

They were also very clear on the fact that the notion around LGD’s being a sustainable alternative is not entirely true. Singh flagged concerns about greenwashing in the lab-grown diamond sector, noting that while some brands claim to be sustainable, the majority of LGD production - now concentrated in India and China - relies heavily on coal power. She questioned the framing of such narratives, arguing that it is unfair to imply natural diamond dealers - many of whom have followed rigorous protocols for generations - are unethical. 

According to her, prominent Indian jewelers, including Tanishq and Malabar, have long dealt in natural diamonds and built consumer trust over decades. Highlighting sustainability efforts within the natural diamond sector, Singh pointed out that several cutting and polishing units in India have already achieved net-zero status, ahead of government mandates. 

“The natural diamond industry has made incredible efforts, many cutting and polishing units in India are already net-zero, ahead of government mandates. For instance, diamantaires in Surat have not only achieved net-zero status but have also created 100 lakes to resolve water issues in their communities. These are real, measurable contributions,” Singh said. 

This was further reiterated by Anand who said that while some bigger lab-grown brands may follow slightly more sustainable practices, lab-grown diamonds typically require water, coal, and significant electricity to produce - making the sustainability factor questionable. She added that in contrast, many of the natural diamonds that they source are 100% sustainably mined. 

Dipping LGD prices

According to experts, LGD prices have dropped significantly, with a 1.5-carat stone declining 83% since 2015. 

“If you look back around four to six years ago, lab-grown diamonds used to be sold at a 40% discount on the Rapaport price. Today, that discount has increased to as much as 98%, sometimes even 99%. So clearly, their market value is declining,” said Anand. 

This was also explained by Cook who said, “LGD prices in the jewellery sector have fallen 90% at wholesale, tracking closer to a cost-plus model as they have diverged from natural diamond prices. Our drive to educate consumers about the difference between natural diamonds and LGDs has accelerated. The myth that you can’t tell the difference between a natural diamond and an LGD is beginning to shatter and DiamondProof’s influence is only going to grow.”

Preserving legacy

In a market increasingly focused on sustainability and price, how can reinforcing the long-term value and legacy aspect of natural diamonds? 

According to Chandramouli, natural diamond brands must reinforce a truth that resonates across all luxury: authenticity has no substitute. The uniqueness of natural diamonds lies not just in their formation over billions of years but in the emotions they encapsulate. 

“Brands must modernize through technological transparency - employing blockchain for traceability, digital storytelling for provenance, and ethical sourcing certifications. Yet at the heart of this evolution, the message must be clear: true value comes from what is irreplaceable. Just as art lovers cherish an original masterpiece, the connoisseur of fine jewelry seeks not replication but the irrefutable charm of the real,” he said.

The other alternative? Through consumer education and right placements. 

Singh mentioned that much of it is happening organically. She mentioned that public figures naturally turn to fine jewelry, especially natural diamonds, when showcasing their best. At the recent Met Gala, everyone we covered chose diamonds, not because of promotion, but because fine jewelry represents craftsmanship, exclusivity, and emotion. Luxury isn’t just about price; it’s about rarity and personal expression.

She also noted that simple reminders resonate, like the phrase, “No one hangs a mutual fund around their neck.” Diamonds are wearable, lasting investments. Their 60-wear challenge showed that most women already wear pieces like mangalsutras or engagement rings regularly. 

Meanwhile, Gautam noted that Indian women are already quite knowledgeable about diamonds, so there’s rarely a need for extensive education. What truly reassures them is the Caratlane’s 100% buyback policy on both diamonds and gold, with no deductions on studded jewelry, instilling strong customer confidence. Many clients wear their pieces for a year or two and then exchange them, often receiving greater value due to rising gold and diamond prices. This trust and long-term value deeply resonate with their customers.

Other brands such as Popleys are focusing on educating their customers. “Education is a continuous and embedded part of our customer interaction. We focus on aspects like warranties, buybacks, product value, and overall trust, which builds an informed and loyal customer base.”

Thus, the increased marketing effort and awareness around natural diamonds may actually lead to reaffirming its worth as said by Chandramouli. According to him, as consumers grow more informed and value-conscious, the emphasis will shift toward authenticity, legacy, and ethical assurance. Trust will be rebuilt and enhanced through industry-wide transparency and consumer education. “Natural diamonds, when presented not just as products but as pieces of history and personal milestones, will strengthen brand equity. Much like timeless works of art, their desirability will persist not despite alternatives, but because they offer something no imitation can: a story rooted in authenticity,” he concluded.